East Africa needs common culture for real integration

What East Africa needs is to develop a common cultural perspective. It should not be taboo to comment on politics in Rwanda and Uganda or do so only at one’s personal risk.

The East African Community came to the end of 2012 with the Common Market Protocol (CMP) halfway in its third fiscal year, which, despite the hurdles and challenges in the way of its implementation, is quite a commendable achievement for deeper regional integration.

That the region was able to pick up the pieces more than 20 years after the former East African Community was unilaterally broken by greedy individuals in 1977 is in itself an enduring lesson that the member nations need to work closely together for the broader benefits of their communities and people.

There is no question of one country being “the stronger economy” and the others weaker. In fact, that was the mistake of 1977 when a few individuals in Kenya brought the former community to a halt and toasted champagne in celebration only to realize some 20 years later that they made a big mistake.

What East Africa needs is to develop a common cultural perspective. It should not be taboo to comment on politics in Rwanda and Uganda or do so only at one’s personal risk. Neither should the rest of the region sit idly and watch the stage being set for a repeat to the 2007/08 post-election violence in Kenya as the country readies for General Election on March 4.

Membership to the EAC should come with a price. Members should be suspended if seen to be bent on tribal politics and other forms of discrimination that cause suffering to the people.

It is not a decision to be taken lightly but, certainly, if nationals of one country cannot find common ground for mutual respect how can they respect the rest of East Africans as the CMP implies and states?

Height of hypocrisy

Institutional mechanisms for integration are important but of paramount importance is the need to evolve a race called East Africans, distinguished not by their common genetic features but through a commonality of socio and moral values that in turn inform the way they do business and relate with the rest of the world.

It would be the height of hypocrisy to say as an East African I am not disturbed by the tribal politics of Kenya or that people are busy sealing tribal pacts and alliances to ensure they emerge the dominant political force in the country come the polls.

Let me be not misunderstood. Cries of social and economic marginalization are not peculiar to Kenya. They are everywhere in the region, including in my native Tanzania.

But Kenya becomes different in that, instead of fighting the tendency, it actually exploits it as the major political and socio-economic capital that drives the nation.

That can hardly set the example of the kind of East Africa that the people of this region want. The primary motive for coming together was the recognition that East Africans share common fate as people of a shared geographic entity.

If there is no change of the mindset to accommodate that bigger picture, then whatever “milestones” of integration achieved would actually amount to useless effort.

I know there are those who would say there is no such a thing as a perfect society. But all societies, in order to enjoy peace and tranquility adhere to a delicate balance of the dominant paradigm.

If the dominant reality is tribalism, self respecting people cannot simply shrug off their shoulders and say: “Well, such is the truth.” It is not. Tribalism is simply evil.

In fact, there is growing religious intolerance in Tanzania too, which should also be kept on a strict watch list or risk suspension. The government has done a commendable job stemming a possible explosion of violence but the important thing is the attitude.
If there is no change in the general attitude, then it is better that people be sidelined a bit in order for them to find new bearing. For me, that is what it means by “people-centered” integration as the EAC treaty underscores.

Water rafting excursion in Uganda

Guests manoeuvre the rapids during the water rafting bit of the adrift experience  

If you love to get your adrenaline pumping, this place in Jinja will do it for you with its lineup of white water rafting, wild jet races and high bungee jumping.

It may not sound so familiar to local tourists possibly because of the challenges involved and the fee charged but the nice services and beautiful setting of the Adrift camp make it an attractive place. Adrift is currently the only adventure company offering white water rafting, bungee jumping, jet boating and river surfing on source of the Nile near the then Bujagali Falls in Jinja.

With a daily free shuttle from Kampala to Jinja, after booking at $125 (about Shs337, 500) for a day and $115 (about Shs310, 500) for half a day respectively, there are guides available to serve breakfast upon arrival and take you through the drills of white water rafting.

Water rafting

“You shouldn’t carry any valuable items save for the costume you are going to raft in,” Yasin Magembe, a guide, said at a recent visit. Equipped with paddles, life jackets and helmets, you paddle in inflatable boats or rafting boat as you navigate Africa’s longest river, the Nile.

Minutes into the paddling, you are advised to hold on to the boat as the waves lead you to the rapid falls where the high water pressure forces you down the falls. With rescuers waiting down the falls, cheers from fellow rafters who have already completed the challenge welcome you. It all gives cadence to just how memorable this experience is.

Jet boating

Before you get over the rafting challenge, another exciting one awaits you –racing on the jetting boats, up and down the Nile rapids.

At about 90 kilometers per hour, the boat comes with propulsion jets at the sides which spin at 360 degrees, giving you an experience similar to driving a car on a muddy surface. The challenge costs $75 (about Shs202, 500) per person and is just as memorable.

Bungee jumping

As one marvels about the country’s great wonders on the Nile, the guides take you to another exciting activity – the Nile high bungee jumping at a fee of Shs $115 (about Shs310, 500). Here, one is taken to the Nile High Tower which is about 44 metres high, to free fall to the bottom while you are attached to an elastic rope, which lets you hover above the water before rebounding high above the river and back.

Mr. Gav Fahey, the Adrift Director says the challenge is 100 per cent safe and the tower is therefore built with this in mind.

“Because our tower has been built and operated to such high specifications, jumpers are much more likely to get injured on the road travel from or back to Kampala [than on the tower],” he quips.

Lodging

After burning up all that energy with the jet race, bungee jumping and water rafting, a guest is given different meals of his/her choice at the Wild Waters Lodges. The beautiful scenery at the lodges and rare setting provides another experience at $250 (about Shs 675,000) for a night.

Although each adventure has its own price tag, you can take the challenge of doing all of them in one day and leave Jinja believing that Uganda really is the pearl of Africa.

Adventure Mt. Elgon for uganda mountain trekking tours

                                            Panoramic view of Sipi falls


When lovesick youth proclaim things like ‘I will climb any mountain for you’, they have no idea what they are saying. For Titus Kakembo, Mount Elgon looked like an attractive challenge, until he started the actual climb

As we set out to climb Mount Elgon; we were treated to the semi erotic Kadodi dance as jubilant residents performed the ritual jog and dance to the beat. Kadodi is a traditional dance to celebrate the Bugisu rite of imbalu (circumcision), the initiation of boys into manhood.

Friends, relatives and in-laws to be of the circumcised boys are in carnival mood. They tell tales of the brave candidates rubbing hot pepper or salt in the raw wound. This is done by initiates, just to impress the opposite sex or be elevated a rung above their peers.

Imbalu country

On a Friday morning, I joined some members of the revived Uganda Mountain Climbers Club on a mission to scale the landslide-prone volcanic ranges in eastern Uganda. After a bumpy ride to the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) office in Budadiri, we were ambushed by the imbalu group gyrating to the kadodi beat as if they were possessed.

The band was led by an ochre painted lad, whose body glistened with beads of sweat under the noon sunshine. He was decorously dressed in intricate strings of beads. Motorists had to pay sh2, 000 or more, for the crowd to give way like the Red Sea when the Biblical Moses slapped it with his walking stick.

Besides that, Budadiri is visibly suffering from retarded development. What used to be a tourist hotspot, Wagagai Hotel, is overgrown with bush. It was named after the highest peak of Mount Elgon. Once plush and comfy, the hotel has since closed down. Today, tourists ride from Mbale on boda boda or rickety mini buses, which are in the habit of breaking down.

 The main mosque in Budadiri struggles to stay on its feet as the bricks fall apart. All the mountain climbers can get before embarking on the adventure are chapatti for sh300, boiled maize for sh200-sh500 and soda for sh1, 000. At Muzafari’s nameless eating place, a plate of katogo is sh2, 500 and tea served in a hot steel mug costs sh800.

Residents complain about the banana wilt disease that has destroyed their banana plantations, while coffee is no longer profitable as was the case in the 1960s. Elders prefer the coffee smuggling days of the 1970- 1980s, when they exchanged their produce with essential commodities. They also speak of the menacing landslides costing their lives and property.

In the wild
“Seeing us armed and dressed in army uniforms should not scare anybody,” the assistant UWA warden, Steven Nyandra, interrupts my train of thought. I was worried about my maiden Mount Elgon expedition. “It is strictly to ensure your safety. In our paths are wild animals ranging from sitatungas, tree hyrax, duiker, elephants, bush pigs, leopards and many others that need scaring away as we trespass their territory.”

Besides the wild animals on this trail, there is plenty of birdlife, including the handsome Ross’ Turaco, hornbills, and the Crowned Eagle. We signed our individual credentials in a UWA book and were fl aged off. Nyandra steered clear of mentioning the fact that, due to the Al Shabaab threats to Kenya, Uganda’s security forces beefed up security at popular tourist attractions.

Strong porters
We were joined by spindly-limbed, but energetic porters. They know the mountain so well; they could climb it with their eyes closed. The checklist comprises of food, tents, cameras and luggage for climbers. For a wage of sh50, 000 a trip, the porters trek up and down at a fast pace, like a cursor criss-crosses a computer screen as it is controlled by the mouse.

Unlike their sophisticated clients, the porters need no mountain boots, insect repellents or climbing gear. Excitement is written all over their faces as they shuffle about to share the luggage. I overheard careless whispers about “weak urban dwellers” who take several days to do what they are capable of accomplishing in five hours. “I hope nobody has any sickness like a cold, headache, malaria or is under medication,” cautioned Nyandra as we prepared to set off at Bumasika village. He then announced that the climb would take two to five days.

He was confident that two days would do, considering the energy displayed by the members in our group — CharlieLangan, UBC’s Dennis Sigowa, Carolyn McPherson, Andy Wunder and Jenny Farmer, beside myself. The cook, Zeveriyo Gibaba, armed with tomatoes, onions, spaghetti, tinned beans, biscuits and maize fl our, assured us that he would take care of us.

 “Just take along a huge appetite because you need tones of energy to get up there,” he said. He added that he has been cooking for mountain climbers for four years and was born here, so we didn’t have to worry. I wondered whether I had heard the mention of malewa, a local delicacy made from bamboo, nyamachoma and cans of tinned beer or was it my wild imagination. Earlier on, at the planning stage, there was mention of beef. But it was cancelled as one of the climbers was allergic to meat.

The higher you go...
On our way up, we met locals going down with loads of potatoes, malewa and firewood. Either way, movement was in single file, like soldiers on patrol. Within three hours, we were audibly gasping for breath. The higher we went, the more conversation dropped from the regular banter to monologues.

My breath became labored; the knees were aching like I had walked from Moroto to the Martyr’s shrine in Namugongo. This was at a height of 2000m above sea level. When I answered to nature’s call, my urine was mysteriously yellow. I developed a pounding headache. The leather mountain boots were feeling heavy and making me move in moonwalk style.

I felt so thirsty and spent. Nyandra noted that it was a red flag. He told me that I did not have to walk at the same pace as the others, but at my own pace. However, I still found breathing harder in spite of having reduced my pace. We took another break and then I was told to take the lead so as not to be discouraged by the others’ speed. Nyandra noticed I was struggling. He told me not to push my limits because it would only get worse as we went higher.

Giving up
After two breaks, I painfully gave up the climb as the rest continued up. I sat down on a stone and Daniel Owiny, one ranger, stayed with me to lead me back down. I had really wanted to reach Wagagai and the cliff described as ‘the wall of death’, but my body was screaming for relief. I knew then the meaning of ‘the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak’. To my surprise, descending was no easy task either. We met a thread of safari ants crossing the paths.

They were ready to bite any flesh. Snuggling through my corduroy trouser, one was destined upstairs, another
dug its teeth in my arm through the overcoat and roamed my rucksack. I contemplated stripping myself naked for relief — after all it was just me and Owiny.

Later, Owiny, who was behind me, lost his footing and landed with a thud on his backside. How he controlled his fall without letting the AK47 go puzzled me. I never investigated whether one safari ant had not ventured up his camouflaged army trousers and caused the upset.

Broken bridge
At Bumasifwa trading centre, we parted ways. The wooden bridge on River Machapa that we had used some hours earlier was partly broken and cars could not cross over. A lorry loaded with maize had done the damage to most of the wooden slats. Owiny got me a boda boda that could somehow balance on what was left of the bridge to cross the river. I said a prayer for God to save me from a landslide as I balanced on the motor bike.

By now, my breathing was normal, the headache had disappeared without taking any pain killer and the dizziness was no more! The boda boda left me sh5, 000 poorer, for a 15-minute ride, down a slope, in free gear! “I hear before us (Bugisu) settled here, there was a tribe called Elgonyi, who used to occupy this land.

They migrated, but the name was corrupted into what we now call Mount Elgon,” the boda boda rider narrated. I went to my lodge in Mbale town and the next day I met Denis Sigowa and Peter who had also given up the climb and beaten a hasty retreat back to sanity. They were staggering as if they had been wrestling an elephant.

We had a sumptuous lunch at a boarding house called Last Chance. I was updated on what I missed when I dropped out before reaching Mudde Camp for a night.

What I missed
Apparently, the team had gone on in silence, only listening to each other panting for breath. Drama reportedly unfolded when they reached the precarious escarpment called the Wall of Death. That night, when they slept, one of the climbers screamed his head off as he dreamt he had missed a step and was falling down a bottomless pit.

Contrary to expectations, by the time they got to the rest place, Sigowa failed to eat, yet he was very hungry. As usual, the swift porters had already made a fire and prepared meals — porridge, tea and coffee. The bath water was already steaming hot. There were lots of biscuits and juice. The members of the Mountain Climbing Club wanted to sample the malewa, but the guides could not let them do that before reaching the peak. That was the end for Sigowa who begun staggering back the next day.

The climbers helped residents in the mountain slopes in roasting a dough mix, which is a raw material for brewing beer. Charlie Langan, a tourist from the UK, went right up to the peak. He says on reaching there, after a 45-minute rest, the first thunder rumbled through the expansive crater.

They quickly started their way down for fear of lightning striking them up there. A minute later, it started raining stones in their faces. The enormous thunder took them off their feet. It happened in a fl ash. They were left completely soaked. The thunder seemed to be below and above. “The guide showed me the Kenya side of Mount Elgon,” Langan recounted. “I remain blown away by what I saw at the tip of Mount Elgon.

There are the Wagagai hot springs, the caldera, Mude Caves and the kind of vegetation you will not see elsewhere in Uganda.” He lamented about the wild life that has been depleted by poachers “We never saw a single mammal mentioned in the writings of the Mountain Climbing Club members of the 1950s. But the bamboo forest and the blue sky is like a piece of canvas. And Sipi Falls on the return route is spectacular,” he observed.

According to him, Mount Elgon is easy and cheap to climb. It needs no special skills. The altitude sickness is mild compared to Mount Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya. It can be climbed at any time of the year. Hikers have to supply their own tents because there are no huts. Just bring along enough warm clothing.